The coastline across the top of Arnhem Land is breathtakingly beautiful, yet with a ruggedness that defies human contact. The only way that we were ever going to see this inhospitably intriguing part of the Australian coastline was by yacht. We spent much of the dry season exploring the geographical top of the Australian continent commonly known as 'the top' . We were enthralled by the colours of the rocky headlands containing a mixture of reds and ochers intermittently slashed by lush green Pandanus Palms. Tall grasses cut the horizon shooting their spear like leaves into the cloudless blue sky. Whilst we reveled in the majesty of Port Essington we were to learn that the ruggedness of the coastline told a different tale to earlier explorers intent on colonizing the area.
Coburg Peninsular - Port Essington
Pulling in our sail we rounded the point to the entrance to Port Essington and decided to make our first anchorage at the eastern end of the Coburg Peninsular. The decision was made to anchor in a small bay near Garig Gunak Barlu National Park jointly managed by the Northern Territory Park and Wildlife and the Traditional Owners. It was here that we went ashore and visited the museum, well stocked with exhibits depicting the struggle of the white people to survive in a hostile land. A canoe in the back of the museum told of a story of a fisherman from Indonesia who had set out on a days fishing only to have strong winds and currents take him on a different journey, finally landing on the shores of Port Essington 43 days later. The inhospitable area means that only the hardiest of birds and animals survive the rough conditions.
A group of yachties that we had been sailing with us joined up for a walk to the cairn at the tip of Coburg Peninsular. From this vantage point we could see that Port Essington was indeed a very large bay by anyone's standards and our charts showed what later turned out to be excellent areas for anchoring points, especially during strong winds.
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